COMPLETE REBUILD for VIKING 6000 SERIES SEWING MACHINES
Your Viking can be restored to like new performance
| Start Price |
USD 258.00 |
| Current Price |
USD 258.00 |
| Time Left |
- |
| Bid Count |
0 |
| Buy It Now Price |
- |
| Reserve Price |
- |
| Start Time |
Friday, November 21, 2008 |
| End Time |
Saturday, November 22, 2008 |
| Location |
Lafayette, CO |
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See more about 'COMPLETE REBUILD for VIKING 6000 SERIES SEWING MACHINES'
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Description
This is an offer to completely recondition YOUR Viking 6000 series sewing machine, any model from the 6010 to the 6570. (does not include the 6690 which introduced electronic motors replacing the mechanical controls) DOES YOUR VIKING 6000 series machine have knobs that have gotten stiff to turn, or completely frozen? Is the needle stuck in left position? Is the reverse button stiff or completely stuck? Is the zigzag mistimed, or not working at all? Is the thread take-up arm loose, perhaps even clattering like a machine gun? ANY OF THESE SYMPTOMS mean your machine is now suffering from two flaws which these otherwise excellent machines have, which have appeared now that it has reached a certain age. They can be cured, however, and your machine restored to its original functionality. STIFFNESS IN THE MECHANISMS is caused by the grease that was put in when it was manufactured, which has now hardened into a waxlike consistency, causing the mechanisms to jam and stick. Problems with the zigzag and cam stitches, and the take-up arm, are caused by two parts made of plastic with a metal core- theoretically due to slight temperature changes of the metal core, the plastic molded around it gets fatigued over time and cracks, sometimes splitting right in two. The stiffness is CURED by complete disassembly and cleaning out that old grease, then reassembling using modern teflon-based lubricant. Viking cured the problem with the two parts with a re-formulation of the plastic material used. IN THE PHOTOS you can see the mechanism that lives behind the stitch selector dial, disassembled for cleaning, and reassembled, ready to re-install. Note in the disassembled picture, the yellowish grease visible on the frame, upper left- the culprit! and the cracked cam, center. Behind the other knobs are other other mechanisms which need to be disassembled and cleaned. After the machine is all cleaned and assembled, of course, it needs to be carefully adjusted and tuned. I AM A PROFESSIONAL sewing machine technician, Viking trained and "Blue and Gold Certified", with 32 years experience. I have rebuilt hundreds of 6000 series Vikings, using Viking approved procedure, and have been replacing cracked cams and take-up arm bearings for at least twenty years under Viking's 25-year warranty- and I have never seen a failure of the improved parts. AT THE SHOP WHERE I WORK, we get 6000 series machines as trade-ins now and then. Almost always, they have symptoms of the developing problems I mentioned. The incentives for the sales staff are all towards selling new machines, and if a trade-in is not a nearly new machine, it comes to me, and they say, "for parts or dumpster." But I hate to see these fine machines wasted- so for some time now I have been picking the cream of the crop, the nicest ones appearance-wise, and giving them the full rebuild when I have time, and listing them on EBAY. This has generated a number of enquiries from ebayers, wanting to know if I can rebuild THEIR machines. So I decided to try it with this listing, and see if I can restore a few more in the time I have. I am listing in the form of a one-at-a-time offering, rather than a want-ad type listing, so I can control the number of rebuilds I am committed to, and ensure a prompt return to the machine's owner. Although Viking's 25-year warranty has now expired for all these machines, I recommend that the built-in cam and take-up arm bearing be replaced with NEW GENUINE VIKING parts; this comes to $68.00. Cams are available from "bojack" suppliers for somewhat less, but I have tried them and found them of lesser quality. My labor is $190. Shipping will be about $28-35 each way depending on where you live- also some of the later 6000 series models were cast of a lighter metal and will ship a little cheaper. IF YOUR MACHINE NEEDS OTHER PARTS, I have a good stock of used parts, and for now will undertake to supply these without additional charge, as long as I can trust people to send me a whole machine, not a stripped wreck! IF I FIND YOUR MACHINE NEEDS LESS WORK OR PARTS THAN OUTLINED IN THIS LISTING, I WILL REFUND VIA PAYPAL FOR WORK I HAVE NOT DONE. Viking BELTS are very long-lasting, but if yours show any signs of wear or aging I will replace them with later-model used belts selected to be in good condition, or if my stock of these is out, new belts from aftermarket suppliers; in the latter case a small surcharge may be neccessary. Similarly, NEEDLEPLATES can usually be smoothed of damage from needle hits, but if too badly chewed up, they are available new. WHEN YOU PURCHASE THIS SERVICE ebay will email you an invoice which will serve as a record and contract between us. It will have my adress and other contact information. I will be happy to answer any questions you have about the symptoms and problems with your machine, to the best of my ability, before you take that step- but of course I can't be definite and precise about its needs until I see the machine. DO NOT SEND your case, accessories, or foot control (unless it needs repair), but DO include your BOBBINCASE so I can make sure the machine will sew perfectly for you. Pack your machine well and insure it for at least $350, which is about the least my rebuilds have been going for on ebay. FOR PACKING, I recommend a box big enough to leave 3 or 4 inches space all around- put a slab of foam in the bottom, put your machine in a plastic garbage bag, leaving the top open to let air escape, set it in the box and fill around it with foam peanuts. Be sure they're packed down so the machine won't shift. If you are willing to dismount the handwheel and the back cover with the spool pins on it, these parts will be further protected by isolating them from the weight of the machine. The handwheel either comes off by removing the screw in the middle for late models, or if no screw just pulls off, sometimes needing a little prying on opposite sides with a pair of screwdrivers. I can give specific directions for removing the back cover if you tell me your model number.
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